Using Macro Lens Filters & The HS20 – Pt1.


For HS10, HS20 And The HS30

Recently I posted  that I had received some Macro Lens Filters courtesy of my daughter when she came back from the UK. I had originally seen these referred to from a forum member at MyFinePix Forums, and I was impressed with the results that he had posted. As I’m a fan of Macro Photography, both mine and other folks as well I ordered some from E-Bay UK, and had then posted to my daughter who was a at Lancaster University at the time, finishing off part of her degree. Macro photography has long been a strength of the Fuji Bridge/super-zoom cameras, and with the advent of the manual zoom/focus lens that many of the better Fuji bridge cameras sport, it makes for some very interesting imagery.

For the first set of images I had the camera set to EXR DR, @3:2 (7mp), Auto ISO 400 and Auto DR 400%. Depending upon angle of light and amount of zoom Ev was adjusted accordingly to ensure proper light levels. This would also require changing the metering to suit.

Other settings used were Velvia for color, noise reduction set to low and sharpness set to low. Ordinarily on a brightly lit subject I would leave sharpness set to hard, but as we are introducing extra lens elements into the system I wanted to get the most from Post Processing for sharpness.

The 7 Mp setting was a brain-fart as I didn’t check the settings initially. All other images are shot in EXR HR @ 16Mp. This is the reason for changing the sharpness setting. I also used ISO100 as well, and while this limits the amount of DR% range it does allow me latitude in the post processing. If I was shooting this sequence in RAW, there would be no changes in settings other than the RAW itself.

I find that the HS20 shot in 4:3 mode at 16Mp with the settings I’ve listed here gives a Jpeg that’s very similar in nature and look to the RAW output of the HS20. The HS10 & HS30 will differ somewhat from these settings given the different sensors and their inherent sensitivities.

So what sort of outcome was achieved? The results were interesting to say the least. All these images were handheld with the Image stabilisation set to full. Normally I have I.S. set to shooting only, but given the large magnification factor I opted for full settings here. To start with we have a standard 24mm wide angle of a leaf from a plant growing by the back door. Interestingly the camera missed focus, as it was set to average for the shot.

That’s the first thing to remember, metering! The focus area when set in average is quite large (approx 1/3 of the image area). Spot is a much better option for this type of work as it narrows the area for the AF to work with considerably.

Click on the images for a full resolution image. Be warned though that they are large and may take a few seconds to load.

Standard 24mm wide angle

Next up is a standard Macro shot taken from approx 9 inches (229mm) distance from the subject. At this point you cant really see the subject, although I could when the sun was in the right spot in relation to where I was sitting. The subject is tiny.

7Mp standard macro

Next up is a standard supermacro both a before & after post processing version.

supermacro @ 7mp-after
7mp-Supermacro- before
+10 lens @7mp – before
+10 @7 Mp – After

Its at this point that a few things become evident rather quickly after viewing the +10 images. In the supermacro image, at ISO400 and after post processing the image is good. No real eveidence of chromatic abberation  shows up (think purple fringing), but the noise level and slight granulation of the image isnt that good. Resolution isnt too bad but an image of this size wont necessarily standup to large print sizes.

With the images of the +10 filter it clearly evident that chromatic abberation is an issue and is evidenced very clearly in the processed image. Resolution isn’t terribly great at this point and depth of field is quite shallow. At first glance you may wonder why you would bother with this type of Macro Filter. A lot of the image quality problems associated with these images arent in fact due to the filter, but the fact that the camera is choosing too high an ISO, isn’t producing good resolution and image quality is suffering. Setting the camera to 8Mp in Dr had little or no effect. This is one of the clearest indicators I’ve seen to date that show how much resolution is lost when using EXR DR.

At this point you may be wondering what I mean in regard to resolution, but thats precisely what HR mode is all about. EXR HR is the mode you use when you want to record every possible detail the sensor is capable of for a given set of settings. It goes without saying that the HS20 is best at ISO100, and thats where things change considerably, and will be the focus of the next part of this article.

Oh and the target subject hasn’t yet been resolved in these images. One thing however that will be instantly clear to the sharp eyed among us is just how good these filters are at creating really nice Bokeh. By comparison the backgrounds in the standard macros were very busy. This can be improved by altering zoom and distance from the camera to your subject.

In the next part of this article I will repeat the process but with optimal settings.

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4 thoughts on “Using Macro Lens Filters & The HS20 – Pt1.”

    1. They are as best I can tell an OEM version of the Canon filters. The link shows the particular item I bought. Mine came with a four pocket pouch and a cleaning kit. My daughter was in the UK last year so she got them off ebay uk.
      http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Macro-Close-Up-Lenses-for-Canon-EOS-1100D-500D-550D-600D-60D-58mm-/220852845341?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraLensesFilters_JN&hash=item336bdafb1d

      Price is still about the same, about $12.00NZD.

      Like

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