Image Stabilisation and the Fuji HS10
As a rule of thumb I generally shoot the HS10 with IS (image stabilization) set at ((2)). This activates IS only while taking the shot and uses only the sensor shift part of the IS mode. There are problems associated with doing this for certain photos.
I currently use the HS10 with a 1a sky-filter . This is not so much for photo enhancement as it is for keeping unwanted things off the lens, such as sea and salt spray when shooting surfers or kiteboarders, or rain when in a wet environment. All of these things as well as many others can leave unwanted deposits on the lens which may a scratch it when cleaning.Attached to the sky-filter is a full sized lens hood. As the petal lens-hood is not available in N.Z. I bought the full sized one. This created some vignetting when using the lens in the 24 to 35mm range but with the hood retracted it doesn’t present a problem.
How ever when using sensor shift with this setup the results can be quite surprising as you will see in the photos I took at Yattan Park in Tauranga last Thursday. Suffice to say I now use the camera in the ((2+D)) for both digital and sensor shift IS. The result of this is a much smoother process as there is not as much requirement for the sensor shift to move as much. You can still quite happily use the HS10 in the ((2)) mode but not with the type of set-up I use.
As you can see from the above images the sensor movement is quite large. When this occurs you can feel the camera literally “buck” in your hands. Its a very distinctive feeling when this occurs. With the Lens-hood removed this is not a problem, however if like me you are using a screw in lens-hood with a screwed in 58mm filter this is a result that can occur from time to time when using the lens-hood with out retracting it first when using very short focal lengths. If you are able to obtain the genuine Fuji Petal lens-hood for the HS10 this would be the preferred unit as it attaches via the lobes on the lens housing.